We headed out from Abancay toward Cusco, the main hub for tourists doing the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu.  The road was a fantastic tar road with sweeping turns and we went well over 4000 metres again and the temperature dropped below 10 ‘C.  Then it was down the other side to below 1500 metres where the temperature was 31 ‘C. The plan was to find the road to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, then go to Cusco on the way south again.  Before Cusco we took the turnoff at Iscuchaca and headed north through farm lands and little villages around beautiful lakes to Urubamba. The scenery was spectacular with rolling green hills, stone walled houses with straw roofs next to the lakes, and the clear blue sky with stark white clouds and the snow capped peaks of the tall dark mountains as a back drop. Wow, what a blessing to be riding the GS on the road which runs through the valley of the Inca Trail.  The town of Ollantaytambo had really bumpy cobble stone streets with a stone carved water channel running between the street and the houses.  The present day town is based on the old Inca town and the almost intact Inca canchas (blocks) can be seen in the still occupied buildings behind the main plaza.  The road out of the plaza leads across a bridge, down to the colonial church and to the entrance of the
archaeological site is lined with shops and stalls selling brightly coloured Inca curios and woven materials.  We could see the ruins up on the slope of the mountain above the town.

Heading out of town we followed the tar road which leads away from the Inca Trail, we asked locals for the road to Aquas Calientes and Machu Picchu and they all pointed us in the direction we were heading!!  The fantastic tar road twisted and turn up the mountain with so many sharp U-bends that it would have frustrated the living day lights out of any sport bike rider!  There was only two sections that were straight enough where the GS could get up to fourth gear, the rest was first and second gear stuff.  Even though the road was in perfect condition we had to be careful for the ever present rock, stones and mud in the road from the land slides.  Before we knew it we were back up in the clouds at 4300m and the temperature was back town to 5’C.  Down on the other side of the mountain the tar road became a semi-good condition gravel road that still wound up and down at incredible angles.  This ride to our destination was taking us much longer than we anticipated and we doubted that we were on the right road; but every time we asked locals for directions they assured us that we were heading the right way....  Slowly the light faded and the evening caught up with us which made the journey even slower but we were sure that we were close enough to push on to Aguas Calientas where we planned to rest for a few days. 

We eventually got to Santa Maria where we had to turn off to Santa Teresa.  A local on a 200cc Chinese scrambler was heading in the same direction and offered to show us the route.  This was great as it was dark and from what we understood from the many helpful locals the road ahead had many turnoffs and it would be easy to get lost.  The GPS was only helping by showing us that we were heading in the right direction as these small roads were not part of its world map data base, even the towns were not plotted accurately.  It was hard to believe that this was the main ‘alternative’ route to Aguas Calientes for tourist that could not afford the huge US$ price for the train from Cusco, the road looked more like a dirt track in some section as it snaked up and down the mountains.  It was quite eerie on the narrow road with the step drop-offs and U-bends at night but on and on we went following the light of the local rider.  At some point he disappeared – he might have stopped in one of the little villages we drove through as there were many people walking and driving around.  We crossed many fast flowing steams, most were nicely paved with cement but a few were nothing but rocks and pebbles.  The one crossing was so wide and deep that the water washed over the engine and we almost stalled, the GS spluttered but praise the Lord we managed to keep going.  We were really relieved when we reached the town of Santa Teresa as according to the map it was not much further to go.  Once again we asked for directions and were told to follow the ‘Electrica’... this meant follow the road that goes to the Hydro-electrical station!  This piece of road was in an even worse condition than what we had been on and what made it feel even worse was that we could hear the river roaring in the dark down below us.  At about 10pm we got to the Hydro-electrical station and the end of the road!!  We were both totally gob-smacked, very disappointed to say the least and at the same time really exhausted.  The very friendly security guards explained that there was no road to Aguas Calientas from that point, only a rail way line. It was too late to try and do anything, so we asked where we could pitch the tent and settled down for the night.  To crown it all it started to rain... The next morning we woke to the sounds of the pitter-patter of the rain drops on the tent and the birds singing.  It was actually a wonderful sound to wake up to, then at 7am we heard the toot-toot of the train arriving at the station.  Praise the Lord, the sun came out and dried the tent so we could head back to Santa Teresa, as we had decided find a secure parking place where we could leave the GS for a night and we would catch the train to Aquas Calientas - Machu Picchu.

In the day light the road back to town was not half as bad as it had been the night before.  What a blessing the Lord had waiting for us, not only did we find a wonderful place to stay – Hostal Yacumana - but safely parked inside the hostels’ restaurant were two Honda Africa-Twins waiting for the owners (a Singaporean couple and a Swiss couple) to return from Machu Picchu!!  We took a local taxi back to the train station and realised that we were truly blessed to have two-wheels to do our journey on the rough roads as the 30 minute horn-honking taxi ride was nauseatingly bouncy!   The last coach of the three coach train was for tourist and it was over filled so that some had to stand for the 45 minute train ride to Aguas Calientas.   The town is built on the one slope of a steep ravine and the rail way line runs through the middle of it.  The narrow alleys of the town are jam packed with hostels, hotels, restaurants and very brightly coloured woven goods, trinkets and souvenir shops.  Some of the alleys had beautiful Christian pictures temporarily laid out on the pathways, made from flower petals, leaves and bits of bark in preparation for the Easter celebrations. 
 

The next morning we caught an early bus for the 30 minute ride up to the ruins of Machu Picchu.  Wow, there really is a tremendous feeling of awe when you first enter the site, seeing the steep terraced slopes falling away to the fast-flowing Urubamba River far below in the valley floor.  The green jungle peaks towering through the mist and clouds as the early morning sun breaks through to reveal the majestic scene of a complete Inca City.  Machu Picchu is by far the most spectacular of all the ruin sites we have visited.  The ruins – staircases, houses, temples, palaces, towers, fountains and even the terraces are the most professionally built and still intact today.  The structures only lack the wooden and mud decks between the two floors in the double story buildings and the wooden frames and grass roofs which have decayed over the years.  The masonry work done by the Inca is unbelievable, much more advanced and professional than the Maya.  The perfect shape of the huge Inca canchas (blocks) chiselled to fit snugly onto each other and on selected large natural rocks for firm foundations, other natural rocks chiselled into staircases or channels for water.  Archaeologists have restructured some of the decks and roofs of a few houses, and we can see that Machu Picchu could actually be a liveable city today

Email sent 9 April 2009................................Machu Picchu Peru
 Photo of us and our new friend from Machu Picchu.

We are on the way to Cusco and then Cruz del Condor (5 days ride) in hopes to see the worlds largest bird in flight, the Andean Condor, also one of my personal childhood dreams.

Sms sent 14 April 2009..........We saw magnificient Andean Condor high in cold wet Colca Canyon. Now in spectacular scenery and dry dusty town of Tacna. We are heading for Chilean border.
Sms sent 15 April 2009....Snuggled up in the tent waiting for the sun to rise in the north Atacama Desert, Chile. Scenery spectacularly dry not a living thing in sight for miles.
Sms sent 16 April 2009....In Antofagasta checking emails then we will continue south. Packed up camp late as everything was wet from the mist
Sms sent 19 April 2009...We have arrived in Santiago, very modern and bling - bling.

Email sent 20 April 2009...............Machu Picchu Chile

From the high canyon rim and mountains (4000m) the road and terrain dropped down to the coastal desert. The scenery changed dramatically from green grass plains to absolutely no vegetation. It was a nice change in scenery for us as the views and roads opened up. We came on the main Pan American Highway, which is in very good condition and we could cruise at 100km/h for the first time in weeks. The GS did not like the low octane (84) fuel at low altitude, and I was relieved to get some 93 and fill the tank up. That evening we pulled off the road out of sight and camped on some beautiful silver coloured sand dunes. The camping on the dunes reminded us so much of our days in Dubai and the many times we went camping with our special friends in the desert. This was the first time we longed back to Dubai and the friends we left behind and it made us realized once again that it sure was a special time in our lives too, despite of all the difficulties that came with it.